Category Archives: Fisheries Update

Let’s Play What’s in the Walk-In: Wild Ocean… Trout?

Say hello to Bradley’s little friend.

On a visit to the restaurant this morning to drop check-stuffers for Harry’s upcoming Animal Pizzeria, I ordered a chopped salad to bring back to the office for lunch.  I forgot to ask for mine just the way I like it, with croutons (we make some of the most addicting ones ever in my opinion – more on our secret later) so I popped into the kitchen to grab some before leaving.  Low and behold, chef de cuisine Bradley Herron was cutting fish in his usual spot  – but with an unusual specimen.  It looked like trout!

“River trout?” I asked, now all curious as to where these slim, hooked-mouth beauties came from.

“Nope. Wild Ocean Seafood trout,” Brad replied. “About 30 pounds came in.”

Is it just me, or have you also only had trout out in the landlocked west?  If so, you can try something new and get a taste of trout from the Atlantic tonight with Bradley’s dinner special. I smelled it all the way upstairs in our mezzanine without even knowing it: simply dredged in flour, pan fried in brown butter and finished with lemon and capers.  I asked him to describe the fish and how it eats from chefs perspective.

“It eats like a trout,” he continued. “Soft, medium to fine flake, crispy skin. It cooks super quick, skin side down, quick flip and it’s done. I’d drink something clean, like a crisp white with this dish.”

Tweet Wine Director Eric Larkee for some winning contenders on our wine list, and read my interview below with Chris Merrifield of Port Canaveral’s Wild Ocean Seafood who shares a little more about his trout source.  Michael and I will get to spend some more time with him next week, when he and other key members of the fishing industry gather for the Southeast Fisheries Association Annual meeting in the keys.  We’ll keep you posted!

Recipe for Sustainability: While Michael Cures Sierra Mackerel for Solutions in Monterey Bay, We Watch the Seafood at Home

Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program is helping all of us help the oceans.

Michael’s headed to California today on an invitation from the Monterey Bay Aquarium to attend its annual Cooking for Solutions event where he will be honored with a distinguished group of chefs as a Seafood Ambassador.

The focus of Cooking for Solutions is to help people connect their individual buying decisions to the health of the oceans and the soil.  The events support the aquarium’s Seafood Watch program, helping consumers make informed seafood choices while dining out or in the grocery store through pocket guides, website, mobile applications and outreach efforts.   Since 1999, it has distributed tens of millions of pocket guides, had more than 240,000 iPhone app downloads, and cultivated close to 200 partners across North America, including the two largest food service companies in the U.S.

Seafood Watch is also a resource for the decision makers on the supply side of the marketplace — restaurateurs, food service companies and retailers like us.  In fact, we recently called on their help with a question about grouper.  Our sourcing decisions are made based on longtime relationships with trusted local suppliers, first and foremost.  So when fisherman George Figueroa from Trigger Seafood came to us wanting to offer spear caught black grouper in the area of the Florida Keys, and because of the particular stigma attached to grouper, we made sure to check with Seafood Watch, too.

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[UPDATE] What’s in the Walk-in: Selles-sur-Cher & 400 Pounds of Fish

New cheese of the week hitting the menu tonight.

Here’s how many of these items arrived to the table last week! We’ve got golden heirloom tomato chutney with the Selles-sur-Cher, a fregola, orange, and radish salad with the African Pompano, and housemade organic ricotta with meyer lemon jam. Heard that food porn Monday!

Selles-sur-Cher from fromagier P. Jacquin & Fils Depuis 1947  in France’s Loire Valley has an ash-covered rind that develops blotches of gray and blue molds as it ages.  The cheese is sweet, nutty, and peppery with mildly tangy acidity. The texture varies depending on ripeness, but it is typically dense and chewy. Bradley’s got it coming on as the cheese of the week  tonight. A first for us!

Like many goat cheeses from the Loire Valley, the outside of Selle-sur-Cher is coated in edible ash. The ash is flavorless but adds a stunning visual contrast against the stark white goat cheese.

So much fish came in yesterday that Bradley had to get cutting before he could store it all.

Line cook Trevor shows off the biggest pompano I've ever seen. Trevor is tall, too!

Our walk-in fish drawer couldn’t accommodate all 400 pounds of whole fish!  Three sources all came in with a variety of beauties, the most stunning being African Pompano from George Figueroa at Trigger Seafood.

“It’s a pelagic fish that migrates southern waters of the gulf stream in winter,” he explained via text yesterday.  ”It falls into the jack and pompano family. Very cool looking. Mostly seen during this time of year.”

Pelagic fish live in open oceans rather than shallow, inland waters.  We also received cobia, myriad snappers, and yellow-dappled golden tilefish.

For more photos of what the kitchen was working on yesterday, see our set on Flickr. TBD on what accompaniment Bradley’s got up his sleeve for the cheese of the week and how the fish will become dinner…  We’ll tweet what we find out later this afternoon!