Category Archives: MGFD_MIA

Meme Want My Fish in a Bag

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Three times is a charm.  Thanks to daily menu change emails from the team in reservations, we tend to notice when @MGFD_MIA chef de cuisine Bradley Herron hits on a dish he’s having fun fooling around with.  The set-up of the moment? Al cartoccio, or, better yet, Bradley’s term of endearment — fish in a bag.  It’s going three weeks strong now, first Yellow Jack with  artichokes, fennel, asparagus, & lemon, followed by Flounder with leeks, georgia corn, asparagus, and thyme, for which our friend Steve Tweeted some love.  Michael’s a big fan, too.

Mutton Snapper al Cartoccio comes together with heirloom tomato, chorizo, chickpeas and cilantro, courtesy Bradley's iPhone.

“I love fish in a bag. I think the Harry’s pop-ups with Vetri and Sawyer inspired him to do it at Genuine. Fish in cartoccio was one of the first things I made at Dilullo’s. It’s nothing new, but that’s what’s great about it.  Rolling those bags up man? I remember that shit.”

We asked line cook Jason Arroyo about the simple preparation yesterday.  After the fish is wrapped up in parchment with a few ingredients and a great compound butter, the little packages quickly bake in the kitchen oven, rather than next to the wood fire which would be a challenge to manage during a busy service.

Knowing Bradley’s penchant for fish-cutting, there will likely be more bags to come before he tires and moves on. Yesterday’s Mutton Snapper was deliciously smokey and rich, but I have my fingers crossed that we’ll get some cobia in there next.  If it’s anything like what we tasted at Greenhouse Pizzeria, he’s got that one in the bag!

Hitting the Sweet Spot: Luciano & Lychees On Deck

Bradley digs into Luc's citrus poached shrimp surprise!

A week from today, the largest MGFD contingent to date — and with a farmer in tow — flies to St. Thomas to board Oasis of the Seas and test the next pair of South Florida farm-sourced menus  at 150 Central Park: Meadow and Artisan.  For the summer shift, we are introducing two new players: lychee, a favorite locally-farmed fruit native to Southeast Asia with a fast and furious season, and an exotic import of another kind named Luciano.

Meet Englishman Luciano “Luc” Bonci, the Royal Caribbean sous chef who will be taking the helm as our new chef de cuisine at 150 Central Park beginning June 2.  As superstar Jamie Seyba heads back to MGFD land after a job well done bringing Michael’s menus to life at sea for 8 (read: e-i-g-h-t) months, we are making a genuine transition by moving Luc into the MGFD kitchen for a couple weeks.  Here he’ll be able to train with chef de cuisine Bradley Herron on all things fresh, simple and pure, as well as flex his creativity a bit away from the structure of life as a ship chef.  We gave his shrimp above two thumbs up for flavor and texture, with brunoise chorizo, brioche croutons soaked in syrup and a confetti of other ingredients.  A lot going on there, but as Bradley likes to say, it didn’t suck!

My next victim! I catch Luc redhanded in the Chef's Table galley on Oasis, October 2011.

The two join Michael, Wine Director Eric Larkee, and myself seaside next week, where, in a matter of four days, Meadow and Artisan will be put through the ringer as they currently stand conceptually to make them implementation-sound for their first service on June 2.  Hopefully the lychee harvest will kick in on-schedule, but in the meantime, we will be working with last year’s harvest of this freeze-friendly fruit for dishes including Florida Rock Shrimp and Lychee summer roll, sweet and spicy dipping sauce; Hedy’s Lychee “Tres leches” Hani’s goat milk sherbet, biscotti crumbles, toasted meringue; and Pan Roasted Scallop, whipped celeriac, lychee butter sauce, parsley salad.

The Samimy grove at peak of harvest on June 11, 2011. When this season's sweet spot will be remains to be seen with this wacky weather.

On Friday, Luc treks down to Homestead to meet owner Roland Samimy, Michael’s longtime lychee supplier for MGFD, to experience the farming of lychee first-hand in the grove and tape the next in our Farm-to-Ship Webisode series with Royal Caribbean.  Read about the Samimys and their product here on The Genuine Kitchen, and find out more about Luc, his background, and how he got hooked up with this gig in the coming weeks.  We’re excited to have new blood onboard and someone passionate about learning what we’re about here at The Genuine Hospitality Group to represent Team Schwartz.  It’s a great opportunity for all of us to grow and learn!

Growing Season’s Crystal Ball: The Forecast is Cloudy, with a Chance of Bananas.

Word on the street from MGFD forager Chris Padin is we have a few more weeks of South Florida heirlooms.

If you’re a public radio junkie like me, you’ve been hearing a bunch of NPR reports on WLRN/91.3 FM about how dramatic the changes in weather are this year across the globe.  Here in the United States, the National Weather Service is reporting a record-breaking warm winter with more than 7,700 daily highs busted last month, on the heels of the fourth warmest winter on record. March was so hot in Iowa with temperatures hitting 84 degrees that oats are now running ahead of schedule, with 58% percent of the crop planted up from 7%.  Experts are divided as to if this is good news for farmers, extending the season’s productivity, or dangerous, since crops could still get hit with frost as late as May.

Closer to home, in the midst of our growing season winding down here in South Florida, farmers appear to be optimistic.  The feeling from the warmer winter, less dramatic than up north, is less growing pains and more dazed and confused than anything else. We tapped farmer Margie Pikarsky, our trusted source who not only has a handle on what’s going on at her Bee Heaven Farm in Homestead, but many others across central and South Florida, for the outlook on upcoming summer crops.

Continue reading