Uncorked: What to Drink with Hedy’s New Desserts

Eric Larkee is the Wine Director at The Genuine Hospitality Group. He pens the Uncorked column here from time to time, we wish more often than occurs. But hey, he’s busy doing the job we all wish we had, drinking and buying wine creatively and thoughtfully for our restaurants, always with a hearty portion of special projects work on the side (echem, Design Miami/ pop cafe, anyone?) When you can’t find his wine wisdom flowing here, follow him on Twitter @ericlarkee.

Last Friday a dreadful 11:30 am meeting was scheduled.  It was time to sit down with Hedy and figure out the best pairings for her four new desserts on the menu.  Like our savory menu, desserts change all the time, but when this many go on at once it’s signaling something greater, like a change of seasons.  See today’s weather if you need proof.  We are creatures of change more than habit, so this transition is fun for us.  So, back to that meeting…

The richness of vanilla bread pudding is balanced with a sweet tart topping of caramelized apples.

First up was the Daily Bread Pudding, which was vanilla. Since the flavors will change each day, we are approaching this thinking more about the sweetness level, texture and density of the dessert. I had assembled a menagerie of our Ports, Sherries, sticky wines and grappas for this. The moment I tasted the fluffy pudding I realized I had forgotten the Moscato d’Asti. La Spinetta’s Bricco Quaglia is my favorite in the category, the aromatics are intense, the bubbles are wonderful and the crisp apple acidity was perfect with the dish, far from any cloying sweetness you may associate with this wine.  I wanted to pick a second option on this but then again, not really, drink the Moscato.

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