This week, our casual neighborhood joint which turns three in the fall (where did the time go?!) rolls out a taste of spring in two new salads. This changing of the guard happens every few months like clockwork, and, without fail, I’m devastated and delighted at the same time. Farewell beloved Brussels sprouts, halved, gently warmed with sliced pears and laced with ribbons of creamy stracciatella! Adieu, watercress and apples with your gentle Cambozola, toasted hazelnuts and pesto vinaigrette! But with change there is opportunity to experience something new and fall in love all over again. ‘Tis the season at Harry’s Pizzeria.
Chef de cuisine Steven Martin went down to the farms last week for inspiration, “We are so limited with what we can grow in summer, but Tuscan kale was EVERYWHERE, so I knew we needed a kale salad.” he explains on the phone. “Once you have that decided, you just need to accent it, so we added roasted beets for sweetness, onions for a little bite and goat cheese for acidity. The [sunflower seed] dressing is really earthy with lemon and dill. We massage the sh*t out of the leaves to break them down. They are so fibrous, and it also really works the dressing in there.”
In addition to Tuscan Kale, Melon combines local English cucumber, radish, fennel, herbs, feta and Calabrian chili vinaigrette. And since we‘re always getting loads whether from Teena’s Pride or closer to home in the Little Haiti Community Garden, Steven simply adjusted the Arugula salad setup so that one vegetable, like pumpkin, can shine in a more whole form alongside this peppery leaf. Our Daily Dinner Specials also get a decadent boost with an ingredient has spring written all over it — peas! Tuesday’s new Braised Beef Cheeks with pancetta, herbs, lemon, creme fraiche come with whatever peas or even fresh beans are coming in, from English and sugar snaps to my favorite snappy Chinese long beans! Could their texture be more pleasant?
“Whatever the melon in season is, we will rotate in, too, for the salad. Golden melon will be next week. Then honeydews and cantaloupe,” Steve continues.
On Sundays, look for changes to the Brunch section, which now rotates its five dishes on a monthly basis. The line up now includes decadent Short Rib Poutine crispy polenta, caramelized onions, thyme, ricotta, farm egg and Arancini with jalapeno bearnaise and local mozzarella, and of course the daily-changing special pizza which on the day of rest rests a farm egg complete with runny yolk for spreading. Don’t even get me started on the game Harry’s daily special soups got going on lately…
Stop and smell the roses at Harry’s. It’s always a good time!