Happy Chefs: Bosslady and her bossman in the Harry’s Design District kitchen, full Beer Slam event mode this past summer.
“I don’t even know where to start,” she begins as we sit in my office on a Monday morning last month. It’s as fitting a place as any given Ms. Hess’s new role. Megan has been pretty much everywhere over the past six months since she was promoted to Culinary Assistant, quite a departure from where we last found her on the line at Michael’s Genuine®. Yet, she’s often still on any given number of lines these days, depending on the day, even the minute, as she can get called from one venue to the next based on what’s going on. With Megan fresh off Oasis of the Seas and in the corporate office finishing MGFD’s recipe book (“so I don’t get pulled away…”), I thought we could catch up for a hot minute on what chef life is like when you’re a culinary assistant, and what than means exactly.
“Yeah, so relaunching 150 Central Park… That was my first project,” Megan says of her transition from line cook. “We actually began in March. There was a photo shoot for the new dishes, and it was the week of St. Patrick’s Day. Everyone wanted me to go out, and I had to work the next morning at 9!”
Working on the ship menus turned out to be the perfect training for Megan’s new position — not only in learning how to teach people, but giving her a new found sense of independence and responsibility where she’d have to act as ambassador for the company. In addition to developing and formatting recipes, testing dishes and shooting how to plate them — all done in Miami in advance — she would travel to the three ships to get menus online with Royal Caribbean’s team. Brand new Harmony of the Seas kicked it all off across the Atlantic. Snapshots of Megan’s journey overseas to meet the ship for its maiden voyage were an invaluable peek behind the scenes of the launch through fresh eyes.
Go Time: Megan holding it down at the Genuine’s Summer Series “OMG! Picnic & a Movie” featuring an Israeli feast off Lynx Grills.
“The first time I went on my own [to the ship] it was exciting, especially because it was first time I had left the U.S.!” she remembers. “I flew into London, then eventually arrived in Southhampton where the ship was in port. I had no idea where I was going. I didn’t have cell service or a contact onboard, and I probably looked like a kindergartner lost in high school! I just went to my cabin first to drop my bags and then to the venue. No one was there, because they were on break, so I just started by tasting some things. That will tell you a lot.”
She held a meeting to hear from the staff on what was working and what wasn’t, then scheduled a full menu tasting for the second day taking lots of notes along the way and reporting back to the TGHG team through email. Some corrections and tweaks were made. Nothing was insurmountable, she recalled thinking.
Plating a dish for Michael Schwartz Events alongside Chef.
“My goal was that when Brad and [Eric] Larkee showed up the day after, that they wouldn’t have to fix anything,” Megan continues. “I’ve worked closely with Brad for two and a half years now, and I feel like I have a good idea of what he wants, not just from seeing how he works, but also because he tells me. Also having the experience and time spent in the restaurants — knowing what our standards are — helps a lot.”
Megan identifies three big takeaways that she’s applied to working with the cooks in our kitchens on land: The importance of repetition, showing and doing hands-on rather than telling, and patience. We would add trust — in your support system, but also yourself. “Problem solving is huge,” she adds. “Prioritizing. Just getting in there and figuring things out.”
Head down, working hard.
Brad also points to an asset you can’t really learn, but that he recognized in Megan from the get-go, essential to all his hires.
“From the very beginning it was about her attitude,” remarks the TGHG executive chef. “Whenever I ask her to do something, the response is ‘no problem’. She’s on it and gets it done. It’s that can-do attitude that is really the bottom line for everyone right now and why Megan is so valuable.”
Brad also talks about her “universality”. She has a potent, diverse knowledge base and the versatility that comes with it — Megan can be called upon to jump in anywhere and know what to do — or learn how to, quick. It could be something planned, like prep for or execution of a Michael Schwartz Events party. Then there are the guaranteed fire drills in this business, like when a cook calls out at Cypress Tavern, Michael’s Genuine or Harry’s Pizzeria® and the restaurants need coverage. Speaking to his confidence in her adaptability, Brad notes a hypothetical. “If we needed the support there, I could go tell her to go run Harry’s for a week.”
Getting sh*t done at MGFD.
When we spoke, Megan’s attention was laser focused on Michael’s Genuine and its recent menu changes.
“I feel like it is a lot crazier than when we relaunched Cypress last year,” she reflected. “There, they handed me the new menu and were like ‘here is what we are doing’. At Genuine, I’ve been a lot more involved, supporting Brad, but also Saul and the team in the kitchen. It’s been everything from foundational stuff like writing the recipes, figuring out how plates are going to look, portion sizes, and making the recipes solid so that anyone can make them. A big part of it has been getting people onboard with the changes in training. Everyone is excited in the back of house to learn the pickups — they are a little more complex and require more skill sets than the previous menu. Time management is key since a lot of the dishes take longer to make. That’s been something fun for me, a lot of new faces in the kitchen and being able to teach them, getting them to understand the way we do things here.”
Supporting at Fi’lia, Megan is experiencing a restaurant opening for the first time and she’ll be the first to admit not quite knowing what she or Brad is getting her into, but from the looks of it the young chef is just adding another arrow into her quiver.
Warm Up: Megan’s view last week, working the Fi’lia oven’s first fire.
“It’s very exciting that Tim is there,” she says of Fi’lia Chef de Cuisine Tim Piazza, who was a sous chef at Genuine before transitioning to get Michael’s first Italian restaurant open. “I didn’t work with him a lot, but the time I did spend with him was great. It’s a different relationship now. I see him as a great mentor.”
For all these changes, Megan happily admits, even reassures herself, that she doesn’t feel corporate. She can still get her hands dirty.
“That’s the thing that still excites me the most. Jumping on the line and getting to cook.”