Another month or so has passed and another enchanted evening was upon us last night, this time at The Cypress Room with our second special guest after February’s wondrous visit from the Gramercy crew. We welcomed Wines of Germany’s Riesling Road Trip and the Overlord of all Overlords since he presides over this wondrous realm in which sugar and acid hang in delicate balance. I write of our friend, James Beard Award Winning Wine Director Paul Grieco, who along with delicious partner Marco Canora, share their passion for creative wines finished with context at their beloved Hearth restaurant and Terroir wine bars in New York City. Eric Larkee always says that wine is the last ingredient of a dish. I’ll add that a great story is the last ingredient of a wine. And my oh my does Paul have some stories. And we learned so too does Berlin-based Riesling expert Stuart Pigott, like how pea soup is typical of German cuisine of the Rheingau, where 2012 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Feinherb, Gelblack calls home. So fitting as the pairing for CHILLED PEA SOUP — CRAB AND SORREL, the second of many standout dishes from chef de cuisine Roel Alcudia and Hedy Goldsmith. See how the Riesling went down, and to such a sweet crescendo indeed, with our Flickr album of 96 priceless pictures.
Wines of Germany stops in Miami on an east coast Riesling & Co. Road Trip exactly where it belongs at our elegant American dining room in Design District. Join our favorite Summer of Riesling Overlord Paul Grieco (James Beard Award-winning sommelier/partner at NYC’s Hearth and Terrior) and co-host Stuart Pigott (Riesling expert and author) as they spread their love of German Riesling in one of its most welcoming homes away from home. The Genuine Hospitality Group and wine director Eric Larkee continue their support of this (still?!) misunderstood grape that makes acid hounds rejoice and all of us thirsty for more. After all, it’s always summer in Miami. Get started early. We always do! Enjoy chef de cuisine Roel Alcudia’s menu and Hedy Goldsmith’s delectable sweet ending below including Welcome Riesling Reception with several Rieslings and passed hors d’oeurves, four courses including dessert all paired with Riesling, and a Bottle of Riesling to go. Mr. Larkee will personally be phoning all guests to help them select the bottle best suited to their taste in sugar to acid ratio — sweet, medium sweet, medium dry, or dry – $150 includes it all. Click here for tickets, and we look forward to discovering what pairings await!
Wild salmon tartare
Ramp and royal red shrimp arancini
Grilled asparagus with jamonnaise
Crostini with fava beans, walnuts, ricotta
Chilled pea soup with crab and sorrel
Filet of local fish, quinoa, Tuscan kale, red curry nage
Pheasant on the spit, morels, asparagus, natural jus
rhubarb gelee, pickled rhubarb, rhubarb consommé
pink peppercorn meringue
The Genuine Hospitality Group’s intrepid wine director Eric Larkee’s Uncorked column comes often (but never enough!) to TGK. Stay on ahead of the grape game curve. Listen to Larkee. You can also follow him on Twitter and Instagram @ericlarkee. In a bind figuring out what to buy at the store? Tag #dialasomm, and he’ll try to assist… store-dependent!
June 21 is almost here and that means one thing to your friendly neighborhood Sommelier. Summer of Riesling!
This is an interesting time for the James Goatee Award winning Paul Grieco-led program. Last summer was Year 2 here in Florida, and we represented — well — we held a state-wide industry focused tasting with four stops including Orlando, Tampa, Palm Beach, and of course, Miami. Results from the tasting were great; we placed third in the nation (after New York and California) in the number of participating locations and the nationally the program reached a high water mark. Here in Florida the question has been, “Did we drink more Riesling?” Hard to tell, but I will say we drank better Riesling, which is far more important.
The past two years also saw Mr. Riesling himself, Paul, traverse down here for dinners where we expended much of our Summer of Riesling energy into one night. These dinners were great and we got to see the difference in Riesling priority Paul and I have. While he gets stoked to show the ying-yang balance of the sugar and acid and how awesome it works with food, I simply like to show people how delicious straight up dry Rieslings are. See here for all the hoopla from 2011 and 2012.
This year our approach is a bit different. Home Base (Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink) is the only fully sanctioned 4 Riesling By-the-Glass pouring restaurant but you will find Riesling-centric programming at our other Design District locations. Here is a run-down of what you will find:
Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink
– Pouring a number of Rieslings BTB including sparkling, still and dessert styles.
– An available flight of the still Rieslings, sure, try them all!
– An expanded & rotating Riesling section, again, focused on some of my favorite dry-style single vineyard selections.
– Slipping a Riesling onto the wine list.
– Check out the chalk board, we’ll be opening something appropriate with the nightly dinner special. If you are lucky there might be a glass left the next day at lunch, little known fact (since it usually all gets drunk) but most Riesling is better the next day!
The Cypress Room
– Riesling Focus on the Tasting Menu.
– We’ll have a delicious Riesling open to pair with the Cheese Plate.
We are drinking the Kool-Aid because Paul Grieco is pouring. The Kool-Aid is none other than Riesling, and Paul is the Summer of Riesling’s ringmaster.
You may recall we shared a primer on this grape last July with a little help from our enophilic wunderkind, MGFD sommelier Eric Larkee. Paul heads up the wine program for chef Marco Canora of Hearth Restaurant and Terroir Wine Bar in New York City, and began Summer of Riesling four years ago because, frankly, who wouldn’t want to toast one of the world’s most versatile whites when it comes to food pairing? All. Summer. Long. Continue reading